Saturday, February 26, 2011

26 February 2011 (Saturday) India - Rural Visits

Rural visit -- India

We spent the past few days busing all over inner Tamil Nadu. It's been absolutely beautiful, but we've all gotten a little nauseous from the stop and start driving on the smaller, more rural roads.

The main component of our rural visit was a day visiting smaller communities around Tanjore (or Thanjavur). Our group of thirty-five split off into four smaller packs, and headed off in different directions an hour or less outside the main city. My group began our explorations with a stop at a fishery, and continued to the rice fields in the immediate vicinity. The workers at the fishery gave us some demonstrations of their fishing and we walked out into the field to talk to them as they were planting the rice plants. We asked them about fertilizer use in the area and they told us that right now natural fertilizer isn't available in enough abundance to use in their farming, so they use chemical fertilizer, or nothing would grow.

One woman who was planting (only women were doing the planting work, and when we asked they couldn't explain to us why) told us she earns 200 rupees a day, lives with her parents, who arranged for her job working in the fields, and her two sisters, and showed us the sores from the fertilizers on her hands. She said she is twenty-five and still looking for a husband. Standing in the sun it was the very definition of blazing hot, the air was almost completely unmoving, and the women spend hours in that for days bent over in muddy water planting little seedling after seedling. They began singing a little after we walked over and our translator told us they did so to stave off the tiredness and re-energize themselves, but the song was in rural Tamil so she had no idea what they were saying.

After that we moved over to a place where they clean and pack rice for transport. There was a small temple right next to it dedicated to the god of rain. The eight of us walked in and just as we were being blessed by the priest a blast of cool wind hit us through the open walls and for the first time since we got to India it started raining. After the constant weight of intense heat and sun all day that rain really was like a gift from a beneficent god. Honestly, I'm not sure how to describe how happy we were, except to say we got utterly drenched and loved every second of it.

Soaked to the bone we moved on to a little primary school where we sang to the students and they put on a dance performance for us. Then our last stop was in the collection of houses across the street from the school where we talked with the people about their families, agriculture in the area, and their health. 

Roaming around the countryside was almost painfully picturesque, the glowing blue sky had white cotton-ball clouds, and the palm trees and rice paddies were alive with color and the vitality of thriving earth. Talking afterwards our whole group agreed, this was one of the most significant parts of our entire experience in India, and we wished we had more time in the area to talk to people, or maybe even do a case study there. I should mention though, that we realized this visit wasn't necessarily at all representative of rural India; the town was still within a comfortable walking distance, and there was a major hospital close by. All the women we spoke to told us they had their children in the hospital, and almost everyone said they would visit the hospital if they needed care.

On another note, while it has been a constant challenge to keep up with news, I would like to say that we have been paying attention to the revolution(s) going on in the middle east right now. And more personally I would like to say, "I'm with you Madison, keep holding out for what is right!!" I was stunned to see articles on the Wisconsin protests for a few days running in The Hindu (which doesn't print much international news to begin with!). Thank you for standing up for the people's voice in politics! :)

Next up, spring break!!

Photos- Our autorickshaw driver Babu on the right, and his friend, our sometimes auto driver, who got hit by a motorcycle

(1-4) The first stop on our rural visit, a yoga ashram in Aliyar, in western Tamil Nadu, on the edge of the Ghats mountain range. Whenever we stood around ooh-ing and ah-ing over the monkeys who also inhabited the ashram, the workers there would come over and watch us. We thought they were there so we wouldn't hurt the monkeys. We were wrong, they were there so the monkeys wouldn't get us.











(5-7) On the road.









(8-13) Next stop, the Brihadisvarar Temple in Tanjore. Built by the famous Chola king Raja Raja the Great, it's walls are covered in writing that document the history of his reign. Sorry about the excess of pictures, we were having fantastic sky days. :)
















(14-15) Workers at the fishery.




(16-17) Women planting rice in the rice fields.




(18) Cleaning rice.

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Wednesday, February 16, 2011

16 February 2011 (Wednesday) India - Chennai

Homestay (Continued)

Have I mentioned before that while on this program, time seems unusually warped and slowed? One day feels like half a week, a whole week feels like a month, and a month is simply immeasurable. In short, I think I'll be around 90 by the time this program is over.

Last week, while we were visiting a cultural site of traditional south Indian houses called Dhakshina Chitra, our tour guide was this tiny women in her 80s. She sped us through the park, barking orders, giving amazingly detailed histories of each house, and telling us "I teach at a University, so don't think I can't manage you students!" She was especially amused by the two tall guys in our group, who are each over six foot, and we have some funny pictures of the two of them with her, over two heads shorter than them, standing in the middle. When we asked her about her family she said she has a baby at home she has to go take care of every day (her husband).

So besides my homestay partner and I, two other women from our program live on the second floor of our house with our host mom's sister-in-law and her husband, but it is our host mom Suganthi, who does all the cooking and takes care of us. We've been attempting to help her cook (she laughed and just lets us watch) or just do our dishes (We say "Is this the sponge for dishes?" She laughs and says "No no," and elegantly shoves us out of the way). Finally we devised a plan to distract her, got her talking with us at the dinner table, made some jokes, complimented her cooking, discussed Indian culture, and quietly two of us slipped off to wash the dishes. But of course I couldn't keep a straight face and Suganthi started asking me why I was laughing, and then she heard the clanks and splashes. Needless to say, we were banned from even bringing dishes into the kitchen for two days afterwards.

Thursday night last week we asked Suganthi about her bangles and sarees, collections every Indian women loves showing off. We asked her which of her bangles were her favorites and she showed us the two simple gold bands, one on each wrist, that she wears everyday. "Those are too bothersome" she told us. And when we asked her how often she wears sarees she answered, "Only when I must, they're too much otherwise" and twirled a little in the kurta and loose pants she was wearing. An eminently practical woman, that is our host mom.

We spent hours after that looking at family photos, and Suraj showed us some of Suganthi's studs for her nose, teasing Suganthi for the diamond one her late husband gave her that she dropped down the sink while cleaning it a few months ago. Unlike many American teens, Suraj is always completely excited to show us pictures from his infancy and toddler-hood. He always wears this big toothy grin, with a round face and big ears. He has mostly his father's face and height, which give him sharp planes and a defined face, but his mother's eyes and build, which adds an element of sweetness and spark to his looks, and makes him as gangly thin as a young stork.

Suraj is also a game master. He loves cricket and we constantly pester him to teach us the rules (he explains when we ask, but we typically just get more confused). He is also an extremely competitive chess player, he and his eight year-old cousin who lives down the street are ruthless when they meet in a chess match. Somehow last week I got caught in a chess game with Suraj, I haven't played chess in years and he sat there stroking his chin before every move. I held on by the grace of god, before Suganthi came to the rescue with bangles, sarees and family photos (even Suraj was distracted!)

He is also a master of carrom, an Indian game that is a little like billiards, except the balls are flat disks like checkers pieces, and you flick the cue around with your fingers, attempting to get the pieces in one of four pockets on a small wooden board. Honestly, it's really hard and it hurts to flick the ivory cue around! Suraj and I teamed up against my homestay partners and Suraj's cousin last Friday. I made the most points of us newbies, but I also lost the game for my team. Suraj got revenge though, beating all his relatives (the six that were there) in the next game.

Now Chennai- I think the one thing everyone can say is that traffic in this city is one massive never-ending dangerous mess. At first it's really scary, crossing the road takes minutes of concentration, then you get used to it and think "Oh, this is no big deal", then a dump truck comes within inches of hitting you and you're back to being really scared. I haven't seen any accidents firsthand yet, but others in our group have and one of our rickshaw-men showed up one morning with a large tear in his shirt, telling us that a motorcycle ran into him the night before.

A couple days ago we were taking a bus to a site visit, but the street we were on was pretty narrow and there were other buses and autorickshaws parked on it. As we were weaving through them, stopping and starting to let other traffic past a motorcyclist drove past us in typical Chennaiker style, trying to squeeze in before the bus stopped again. Unfortunately the we started turning right then and pinned him between us and a parked auto. From the bus we couldn't really see what had happened until he began banging, hard and sharp on the bus's side.

Another part of the quintessential Chennai experience is the autorickshaw. Riding an auto for the first time is like riding an old theme park roller coaster, bumpy with lots of unexpected turns and basically nothing in the way of safety belts, and thus, utterly wonderful. Riding in an auto in the morning or late at night is the best. In the morning the city is just starting to get into the swing of things and doesn't have the crazy pace or horrible traffic deadlocks. At night cool breezes swim by unexpectedly and Chennai is actually very quiet. Everything smells like humidity and wet dirt, and the late night streets are ruled by animals more than man, stray dogs outnumber people in some areas. And you can spot pigs and cows rummaging through garbage as you rattle by in the auto.

Riding in an auto is also a feast for the nose, each street and neighborhood has its own scent, incense near temples, oranges and melons near rows of fruit stands, and warm spice by restaurants and food stands. The rivers consistently smell sickly sweet, like rotting biomass (which they are since the city's sewage dumps into them) and other people can't stand the smell passing by them. Chennai itself, on the whole, has a rich, thick smell to it, somehow a product of the heat, density of people, and overabundance of motor vehicles.

Unfortunately autos are also notoriously noisy, and each engine has its own unique roaring put-put. We always know when the auto driver who picks us up in the morning arrives because of the sound of his auto. different autos also have different kinds of horns, the older ones have adorable squeeze horns that are reminiscent of cars from the early 1900s. Newer ones have this horribly obnoxious wailing siren that is utterly deafening to the passengers. Getting a good auto driver -- one who doesn't charge you twice the regular price for being a foreigner, one who doesn't get angry and purposely cuts people off, one who doesn't honk too much (especially with a new horn), one who is willing to make change when all you have is big bills, and one who likes chatting with customers -- well getting a driver like that is a perpetual shot in the dark.

Okay, enough, I'll go back to updates next time. Things have just been a bit bogged down with the details for our project work. :)

Picture- Elliot's Beach, Chennai 
 
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Thursday, February 10, 2011

10 February 2011 (Thursday) India - Chennai (and Mahabalipuram)

Homestay Chennai Begins!!

Apologies for not updating recently!! Things got really busy once we got into our homestay, and my homestay partner and I have spent the last few nights up late talking with our host family.

Friday night we met our host families. As a group we were all pretty exhausted, and the prospect of meeting our families and adjusting to another new living situation was more than a little daunting. But I think we were all pleasantly surprised, and everyone showed up on Monday with stories to share from the weekend. It was absolutely wonderful on Friday to go home to a real home and have an actual home cooked meal (dosa with coconut chutney!)

My homestay partner and I live with our host mom, her son, and her father-in-law on the ground floor of a house, while her sister-in-law, her sister-in-law's husband, and two more students from our group live on the second floor. The house is cool and airy with happy yellow walls populated by a rainbow of Hindu art pieces.

On Saturday we tried to sleep in a little, but apparently 9:00 am was too late. Twenty or so of our group joined our homestay coordinator in a visit to a shelter for former sex workers and street children. We met with the center director and then met some of the women and children staying in their shelters. Then a group of us headed to Mahabalipuram, a few hours south of Chennai, and saw the two thousand year old Hindu temples and rock carvings by the sea. The craftsmanship of the temple statues and carvings was beautiful, with all the details uniquely focused on the hands, feet, jewelry, etc.

Actually, I was personally thrilled to go to Mahabalipuram because we studied the major rock carving there, Descent of the Ganges, (the one with the elephants below) in some detail in my art history class last semester, and it was amazing to actually get to see it in person! After multiple dinner stops on the way back we got home around 11:00 pm, so needless to say we practically passed out on our beds within  seconds of crawling in.

Sunday was marginally quieter, and we got some homework done, and started to really settle in. Monday & Tuesday were mainly class, but we had some great speakers and a fun visit to the beach. Then the past two days have been bus, site visit, bus, site visit, lecture, starve because we're running late and haven't had lunch, then lunch finally, lecture (try not to fall asleep from food coma), bus, site visit . . . Repeat!

Okay, half way, I'll catch up in the next post with some funny stories, culture, and host family fun (our host family is adorable!!) from the past few days :)

Pictures: meeting host families
 children peering down at us as we leave the women and children's shelter
 cow at Mahabalipuram
 sea shore temple at Mahabalipuram
 Descent of the Ganges rock carving -- Mahabalipuram (it goes by a bunch of other names too)








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Friday, February 4, 2011

4 February 2011 (Friday) India - Chennai

Adapting to Chennai

Well, the past few days we've been adapting, experimenting, learning, and buying piles of Indian scarves.

We haven't had too many site visits, mostly classes, introductions to India, Indian culture, and Indian Health Care. (Honestly, I had to look back at the schedule to remember what we were doing yesterday).

A small group of us got to make a visit to the Tuberculosis Research Center (TRC) and the ICMR Research Center (the Indian version of the NIH). The TRC is considered the epicenter of TB research in India and is one of the largest TB research centers in the country. Many of the early studies on the efficacy of sanitarium quarantine came from the TRC, and it turns out that DOTS also started in Chennai!

We met with a number of their researchers, both practitioners, social scientists, and lab researchers, and took a tour of their facilities. Although the buildings were extremely depressing -- they were the former sanitarium buildings -- it was really amazing the quality and volume of research they are carrying out.

We also got to see a lab funded by the NIH, and the contrast in the facilities, lab equipment, computers, instruments, and even the clothing the researchers were wearing, was stark.

Hmm, I guess nothing much exciting has happened in the past few days, just some work, but we're meeting our host families tonight, yay! :)    

Also, I just realized I haven't taken any pictures of the city, so I promise I will have more photos of Chennai in my next post!

Pictures- The Tuberculosis Research Center
 an attempt to take a photo from an autorickshaw (I'm going to try video next time!)
our room at Hotel Kanchi in Chennai (what messy children we are!!)

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Tuesday, February 1, 2011

1 February 2011 (Tuesday) India - Chennai

Welcome to India -- Vanakkam!

Orientation, orientation, followed by lots of food, and more orientation. We've been going through PowerPoint after movie after PowerPoint cooped up in our hotel, and it feels like we've been running in circles for the past two days. The welcome speakers and performances were fantastic though, we got to sing, watch a dance performance, and a yoga demonstration. We also started regular yoga sessions this afternoon. It ran an hour over schedule because the yoga master wanted to go through a history of his yogi, and it took 40 minutes before we could ask him politely to move on to the actual class. We only did a short routine and practiced some meditative poses, but it was harder than I expected. I really loved the combination of movement and breathing, and definitely found it invigorating.

The concept of scheduling and time here is significantly more flexible than in the US, and especially different than Switzerland. Today we were supposed to start at 9:15, but didn't get going until 10:00. It's frustrating, but we're adapting. Also, I think the cooks who make our breakfast and lunches are taking pity on us because the food is noticeably less spicy. :D

Pictures- IHP India inaguration ceremony (Hindu) with Dr. Ramakrishnan, our country coordinator, Dr. Solomon, our guest speaker, and Dr. Schenker, one of our professors

 Bharata Natyam dance performance

Tuesday orientation/welcome dinner

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